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2007 Meursault Tasting: Matrot, Girardin, Ente, Lafon

August 27, 2010

2007 MEURSAULT TASTING: MATROT, GIRARDIN, ENTE, LAFON – Vin Vino Wine, Palo Alto, California (8/20/2010)


Rebecca, Dan and Brenda at VVW

I should have one of my major reports of the year, on the two-day Family Winemakers tasting this past Sunday and Monday in San Francisco, completed and posted sometime this weekend. In the meantime, I enjoyed this recent tasting of ’07 vintage Meursaults at VVW.

From this tasting of seven wines from four different producers, I got a sense that this is a very good vintage for Meursault, even if the results from one producer–Thierry et Pascale Matrot–confirmed problems with premature oxidation at that house that I’ve experienced with their Meursaults from other recent vintages–’05 and ’06. The ’06 Matrot Les Chevalières I tasted last year was already severely oxidized, and this ’07 was somewhat prematurely oxidized, and the Charmes was not much better. I question whether the Matrots are practicing too much batonage, which they refer to on their website without giving details as to how much with each wine.

The Girardin Meursaults we tasted covered three of his seven Meursault bottlings, including his one Domaine vineyard, Les Narvaux. All three were quite good, especially Les Charmes-Dessus. My other favorite wine of the tasting was the highly structured Comtes Lafon Clos de la Barre, although this is a power-packed Meursault that needs some serious aging, at least 5 to 7 years. The Girardins are fairly approachable already, and should be quite lovely with two to three years of aging. The Ente Meursault also showed well for a village bottling, albeit a little tight yet.


  • 2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Meursault Les Chevalières – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Light golden yellow color; a little oxidized, butter, mineral, applesauce nose; tart lemon, citrus, mineral palate with near medium acidity; medium finish (86 pts.)
  • 2007 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Tillets – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Bright lemon yellow color; fresh lemon, citrus, vanilla nose; tight, citrus, mineral, gunpowder palate; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Light lemon yellow color; deep ripe lemon, citrus, orange nose; tasty, poised, focused, lemon, citrus palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Arnaud Ente Meursault – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Light yellow color; oak, vanilla, almond nose; tight, ripe lemon, citrus, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Butter yellow color; reduction, apple cider, apple butter nose; hazelnut, apple, apple cider palate; medium finish 88+ pts. (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Light yellow color; poised, vanilla, cream nose; tasty, tight, tart citrus, lemon, vanilla palate, which should integrate with time; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Light yellow color; reticent, vaguely floral, mineral, white pepper nose; tight, tart white fruit, white peach, mineral palate, needs 5-plus years; medium-plus finish (93 pts.)
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